A Visit to the Jungle and a Short Stay in Iquitos
I am a 64-year old retired finance woman, who lives in New York City. I love living in my city but I also adore traveling to environments and cultures that are very different from my everyday life. My husband, Jerry, and I had been to Peru eight years ago, on a group trip and had to choose between a few days in the Amazon or hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Pichu. We chose the later. No regrets. But the Amazon kept calling to us as a missed opportunity.
Scarlet Macaws in Explorama Lodge
But how to see the Amazonian jungle? Boat or Lodges? After looking at the Explorama web site (www.explorama.com) our decision was made. We would stay at the Explorama lodges, and since we have plenty of time, at all five of them. In addition, we would have a private guide, Luis Mayanchi, to educate us and keep us safe. We tacked on a couple of days in Iquitos at the end of the jungle stay and booked a 16-day trip to this region in February 2009. I am so glad that we did so.
Nili Olayand Luis Mayanchi in the Canoe
The Explorama lodges rank from least to most adventurous as follows: Ceiba Tops, Explorama Lodge, ExplorNapo Lodge, ACTS, and ExplorTambos . We spent 4 nights in Explorama, 3 in Napo, 2 in ACTS, one in Tambos and a three-day finish in “luxury” at Ceiba Tops.
Nili Olay and Jerry Vetowich on the Amazon River
What did we do during our time in the jungle? We hiked, when the trails weren’t flooded, we canoed on the flooded trails, we motored on the Amazon, the Napa, Manati, and Sucusari rivers. We watched birds in the Canopy Walk and searched for monkeys high in the trees. We visited villages, fished, met local Shamans and learned about the medicinal plants of the jungle. We were bit by mosquitoes, caught in rainstorms, slid in the mud, and scratched by low hanging plants.
Jerry Vetowich and the Shaman
We picnicked in our boat, watched the gray dolphins, porpoises and the pink dolphins swim. We sat in absolute darkness at the foot of the jungle and listened to sounds. Spending a bit longer in the camps than the usual visitor, allowed us to experience the jungle in greater depth. For instance we visited the Canopy Walk at different times of the day- six times in all.
Nili Olay and Jerry Vetowich hiking in the jungle
Back in camp, we relaxed in hammocks and talked to fellow travelers. We met members of the Rotary Club in Minnesota, who were in Explorama Lodge to build a new health clinic. We had dinner with Professor Nancy Dunn, who was so seduced by the jungle that she gave up her life in the U.S. to open up a library in the jungle so that village children would have an after-school program. You can learn more about Nancy’s program at www.cccamazonlibrary.org.
Belen
The jungle was never far away from us, even in the Lodges. A pink toed tarantula came to visit on the floor of the hammock house in Ceiba Lodge. We heard parrots and scarlet macaws squawk, and watched little squirrel monkeys scamper nearby to eat the bananas that were hanging on the tree. Except at Ceiba, we ate and read by the light of kerosene lanterns. Electricity was minimal, but there was enough of it to allow us to recharge camera batteries and power up the computers. Only ExplorTambos, which is the most primitive camp, had no modern conveniences at all.
Nili Olay petting the manati
After 14 peaceful days in the jungle, we returned to Iquitos and were bombarded by the noise of the motorbikes and 3-wheel conveyances. We hired Jesus Rueda info@amazonreise.com to introduce us to Iquitos, and Belen. We walked to the old Rubber Baron mansions, we canoed on the “streets” of flooded Belen and visited the “Centro Peruano de Rescate de Fauna Amazonica,” a manatee volunteer rescue operation www.acobia-dwa.org Since we were the only tourists at the center, we were able to bottle-feed the friendly manatees, pet and enjoy them.
I encourage everyone to give the Amazon jungle more than a cursory glance and to stop in Iquitos long enough to enjoy its offerings.
Nili Olay
305 W. 98th Street Apt 7AN
New York, NY 10025
212-666-9170
niliolay@yahoo.com
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